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Understanding Metals & Wire

TYPES OF METAL WIRE

Base Metal
Base metal refers is a metal other than a precious metal. They are usually alloys of non-precious metals and are usually made of tin, copper, bronze or nickel. Some wires can be coated or plated with precious metals like silver or gold. 

Wire can also have a permanent color coating. Usually available in gauges from 16 to 30. 

 

Brass

Brass is usually referred to an unplated, base or raw metal and has different harnesses and colors which are achieved by adjusting the copper and zinc alloy ratios that make up brass. The colors tend to range from orange to brownish golden yellows. When brass oxidizes it darkens to a rich patina.

Copper

Copper is a base metal and is an orangish-brown base metal that is inexpensive, great to practice with and can be polished for a bright look as well as oxidized to a greenish or blackish patina.

Beading Wire
There a great range of beading wires. They are made of multiple strands of stainless steel covered with clear or colored nylon, which makes them strong and durable and is the material of choice for most bead-stringing needs.

Generally beading wire creates an attractive drape of the jewelry piece, doesn't kink, and is available in many diameters from .010" (very fine) to .024" (heavy).

Beading wire is firm enough that it can be used without a needle.

Crimp beads are used to securely fasten it to a clasp.

 

Memory Wire
Memory wire is a hard, permanently coiled steel wire that retains its coiled shape. It is so hard that it is best cut with specific cutters called Memory Wire Cutters.

It comes in various diameters appropriate for necklaces, bracelets and rings.

 

Gold Filled
Gold-filled wire is made by fusing a layer of 12k to 14kt gold to a base metal—usually brass – that results in a permanent bond and makes it resistant to tarnishing.  The gold layer on gold-filled products is thicker and will wear better than gold-plated products. Although gold-filled wire is generally considered hypoallergenic, some people who are especially sensitive to metals may still have allergic reactions to it.

Gold Plate - Gold plate is achieved with a thin electroplating of gold over a brass base metal.


Fine Silver
Fine silver wire is 99.9% silver and because it has a higher silver content than sterling, it is much softer. Fine silver will not oxidize and turn black when heated.

 

Sterling Silver
Silver is considered a  precious metal and when combined with copper in a 92.5% / 7.5% ratio, it is considered sterling. Adding copper to silver makes the silver harder and easier to work with. Sterling silver wire will tarnish over time but can be polished easily. This is the metal of choice for most when wire working.  

Vermeil

Is sterling silver that has a gold coating of at least 10K gold. 

 

 

SHAPES
Round wire is circular in diameter.

Half-round wire is flat on one side and domed on the other. The cross section looks like a half circle.

Square wire has four equal flat sides and the cross section looks like a square.

Triangular wire has three equal flat sides and the cross section looks like a triangle.
 
HARDNESS OF WIRE

The hardness is important to note as the harder the wire, the harder to bend.

Hard

Extremely hard and rigid. Will not bend easily & often will snap and break when bent. Not recommended for jewelry making.

Dead Soft

Dead soft wire is the desired wire in jewelry making it is usually used to describe sterling silver and gold filled wire. It is most often used when a design calls for making several bends and loops It has been annealed by heat to make it soft and malleable. It is flexible to work with and can also be hardened by simply working with it. The more you work with your wire, the harder it will become. Wire becomes harder as it is manipulated, so using dead-soft wire will enable you to manipulate it longer before it becomes too brittle to work with. If you need it firmer then tapping the wire with a rawhide hammer, bending it or simply working with it using your hand tools such as pliers will harden it.


Half Hard

This term is usually used with sterling silver and gold filled wire. Half-hard wire has been hardened but is still very malleable it is between hard and dead soft. It is stronger than dead soft, but can become hard when working with it very quickly. As wire becomes hard, it can snap and break easily. Because it has been hardened, half-hard wire will maintain a loop, bend or shape under some stress. Half-hard wire is commonly used when making wire-wrapped jewelry or simple loops.

 

SIZES

Wire is available in a variety of thicknesses. The thickness or size of wire is referred to as the gauge of the wire. It is important to know what thickness is appropriate to use. In general, the smaller the number gauge, the thicker the wire.
 
14 gauge = 1.65mm diameter  & 16 gauge = 1.3mm in diameter

Useful to make headpins or eye pins for beads with large holes, hook style clasps & thick heavy duty jump rings, great sizes to add texture with a chasing hammer and bench block.

18 gauge = 1mm diameter  & 20 gauge = 0.8mm diameter

Used for more delicate headpins or eye pins for beads with average sized holes & thinner jump rings, split rings & earring wires

22 gauge = 0.65mm diameter

Great for substantial wire wrapping & fits most beads. This seems to be the perfect gauge to work with many gemstone beads.
 
24 gauge = 0.5mm diameter

Commonly used for head pins and wire wrapping beads with smaller holes, particularly some freshwater pearl beads or gemstone beads.

26 gauge = 0.4mm diameter  & 28 gauge = 0.32mm diameter

Used to work with small beads as well as knitting and crochet work.




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